- Weingut Günter & Regina Triebaumer
- Neuegasse 18, 7071 Rust, Österreich
- Tel. +43 676 724 8797
- E-Mail weingut@triebaumer.at
- www.triebaumer.at
When I see a lake, I don`t need the sea any more.
In former times, it was common say among the inhabitants from Rust: “The Furmint has to sense the lake but it need not to see it!” Who collects their information mostly from their own or traditional observations (and not from an abundance of electronic information trash) may end up with such a smart reasoning. In fact, our ancestors have rightly realized how a Hotter (Comment 1) functions. Actually the topography of the Rust vineyard Hotter, large terraces developed over centuries, provides (in the very sense of the word) for one-of-a-kind conditions for winegrowing.
The soils of the southern half of the Hotter are dominantly composed of quartz, fire stone and slate. It used to be subdivided into five terraces which were bordered by dry stone walls. As far as the micro climate is concerned, terraces three and four (counted from the bottom) were considered as ideal, as the terraces above were too dry and are exerted to too much wind. On the other side, the vineyards on the terraces one and two, next to the lake, were mostly moist, too fertile and above all subject to bird damage. Since approximately 1944, most of the beautiful walls no longer exist. Times change … the alternating history of the Furmint in Rust and throughout Austria, however, has been existing for a long time. We would like to tell it.
Together with its “partner variety” Yellow Muscat the Furmint coins the wine style of Tokaj and Rust. This combination has always been promising juiciness, conciseness and individuality, precise harvesting provided. From 1890 to 1893 the vine pest overran the east of today`s Austrian territory. During the restructuring phase, winegrowers took the chance to renew their range of grape varieties. In the following decades the so called “Lenz Moser” training system was introduced. This means that the, up to that time, prevailing “stockkultur” method (one single vine tied to a post) was replaced by a trellis system. This development proved unfavourable for the cultivation of Furmint. The juicy Furmint produces large grape bunches and therefore brings a “regular” (let’s say ”more or less good”) yield by applying the “stockkultur”, even if two or three spurs are cut. That’s why the Furmint is colloquially called “Zapferter”, a name referring to the spurs, which was particularly common in and around Rust and Öddenburg (Sopron).
The new training system (with long fruit canes) turned the good-yielding Furmint into a mass crop. The result: poor wines! But, particularly that style was not sought after before or between the World Wars. Because during hard times people yearn for the opulent. Consequently the formerly famous Furmint degenerated to a niche product. At the beginning of the 1980s it was almost extinct. At that time, statistics on Austrian varieties listed not more than two hectares. Almost a wonder that the varietal made it into the “quality grape variety regulation” of the new wine law 1985/86.
After decades of absence, Günter and Regina Triebaumer revived the classic of Rust. In 1990 re-cultivation started in the single vineyard Geierumriss (fourth terrace). The 1993 harvest (experiencing dry weather) yielded ripened, small grape bunches and berries without any sign of botrytis. It produced a dry, medium-bodied Furmint which may now be regarded as typical for the winery. Only the 1995 vintage represented an exemption within the array of vintages produced up to then. Early botrytis caused noble rot grapes. Noble-rot berries for a Ruster Ausbruch (made from Furmint and Yellow Muscat) could be harvested already in mid-September. A wonderful wine. (However the satisfaction was spoiled by external influences: the „cork-stain quota“amounted to a horrible 50 percent).
As far as Austria is concerned, Furmint is exclusively cultivated in Rust. Ten Rust-based wineries cultivate nine hectares of this grape variety. In spring 2009 the winery of Günter and Regina Triebaumer leased a plot of the single vineyard Plachen which had been planted with Furmint in 1989 (third terrace). Consequently, the 2009 Furmint from the Triebaumer winery was produced on one ninth of the total Furmint area in Austria. Statistics can be beautiful! The above mentioned vineyard might consist of mostly slow-growing Furmint vines. This gives rise to the assumption that the Triebaumer Furmint will display a more powerful, full-bodied style in the future. The varietal is characterized by large berries, densely growing bunches and thin skins. Late blossoming and consequently late ripening cause a juicy acidity-potential. It enables an optimum balance in case of an incomplete fermentation causing residual sugar.
The characteristic (large and coarse) leaves of the Furmint are haired at the bottom side – fine but completely. One even talks of “fluffy” Furmint leaves which make this variety easily recognizable. The “basic aromas” of the Furmint are described as follows: notes of ripe, yellow pears and ripe quinces. Therewith the Furmint reminds of the great Chenins from the Loire region. Regina and Günter Triebaumer confirm these impressions. The Triebaumers often place characteristic and highly aromatic quinces on top of their wine coolers for months – in order to have a direct sensory comparison at hand.
A German wine magazine described the Furmint as „Riesling of the East“. There are definitely many similarities. In fact, it ripens late and possesses a high potential for good, crisp acidity. Furmint thrives better – such as the Riesling – on dry locations and requests to be harvested by hand.
Furmint is a versatile food companion. It matches regional treats from the Burgenland strudel cuisine (cabbage or beans strudel) to fish from the lake. The medium-bodied, fruity Furmint-type (which is harvested before botrytis occurs) goes very well with acerbic vegetables and herbs such as fennel, celery and chervil or cabbage turnip. Just recently the vintner couple experienced a nice culinary surprise in the “Esszimmer”, a Salzburg based restaurant led by the Kaiblinger family. We would like to finish off with this little story. We asked the chef what food he would figure out to match the bottle of Furmint 2009 we brought along. Several minutes later, he served nicely fried langostinos with a side dish of melon and sugar snaps. Very delicious; particularly in combination with the Triebaumer Furmint.