- Weingut Günter & Regina Triebaumer
- Neuegasse 18, 7071 Rust, Österreich
- Tel. +43 676 724 8797
- E-Mail weingut@triebaumer.at
- www.triebaumer.at
“Make Muscat runs! This noble nectar!” Such lyrics are still voiced by the “First Rust Male Choral Society”. For more than 600 years, Yellow Muscat has been thriving in the mineral-siliceous vineyards south of Rust. Local people called this aromatic, but difficult to grow, grape variety “Altweiner”; no one knows exactly where this name originated. Particularly in the second half of the 20th century “Muscat” (practically the collective singular for two varieties that is Yellow Muscat and Muskat Ottonel) was prejudged as being sweet, flat, and even “too intensive”.
Presently the situation has turned for the better, particularly for Yellow Muscat which “booms” in Austria. “What`s the reason?” The rising know-how regarding the management of Muscat vines (leaf management, selection of suitable vineyards, plant protection) helps to cultivate the very capricious Yellow Muscat grapes:
The extreme susceptibility of Yellow Muscat to oidium (powdery mildew) can be mitigated to some extent by a well-ventilated grape zone (the grape clusters hang in medium-shadow) and up-to-date application methods.
Recalling the knowledge of the ancestors (who had more time to observe the plants without continuously vegging in front of the TV), Yellow Muscat vines have always be planted in the middle of the slope with quartzite and schist soils. That`s what the Yellow Muscat from Rust likes most. It derives its unmistakable character with ethereal fragrances of mandarin peel and lime from these locations.
Wasp plague. Every year, insects with their appetite for the firm, sweet and fragrant Yellow Muscat berries are an annoyance. A problem that is presently even aggravated by the (important) tolerance for herbs (former weeds).
Today, vinification in stainless steel tanks, tank presses, possibilities for cooling and a rising ambition of the producers considerably contribute to the quality of an animating Yellow Muscat. However, the production of a top-quality wine from this grape requires, first of all, meticulous manual operation by a trained staff. Only if physiologically ripe grapes are harvested in this way, can the delicately spicy Muscat character develop. Nevertheless: there is no other grape which is more susceptible to rod and bursts than a Muscat grape in September.
Wine lovers appreciate the fascinating aroma spectrum of Muscat. Equally, the high acidity potential makes it a sought-after variety. It is the combination of both features that conveys spiciness and finesse to all types of Yellow Muscat wines. These reasons are why this grape variety displays so many faces.
Before we discuss them, let’s make a short sidestep to the Red Muscat. It differs from the Yellow Muscat only by the red pigmentation of its berries. Their colour resembles that of the human skin, similar to Traminer or “frühroter Veltliner”. The wine from Red Muscat grapes tastes exactly like Yellow Muscat wine)
Regarding its yield, the Yellow Muscat is a “grateful” variety. Large, heavy grape bunches with comparably large berries are the rule. (The blossoming period in 2009 was a noted exemption: wind and rain at the end of May resulted in half of the normal yield). Within the interior wine hierarchy, the popular Yellow Muscat always represents the wine with the lightest alcohol content which seldom exceeds 11,5% vol.alc. Marvellous: this variety ripens wonderfully without developing too much sugar.
This wine comes in several batches which are (often as early as August) harvested and fermented separately. Fermentation proceeds at moderately cool temperatures (approximately 18°C). That`s caume il faut for a “low tech/high effort” winery. The ”classical” matures exclusively in stainless steel tanks and, due to the great demand, is often bottled already in January. Because of its charm which combines crispiness and elegance, it remains in great demand, particularly in Austria. Reservations requests begin even before the end of fermentation! Also, in the neighbouring foreign countries and Great Britain, this classic has become increasingly popular as an aperitif, refresher and as a contrast to rural snacks. Even renowned wine connoisseurs have been seen enjoying a glass of Yellow Muscat spritzer. The Yellow Muscat dominates all frequented tastings as “best buy” – (a worthy mention – in all modesty).
In the TRIE white cuvee our total quantity of Chardonnay selections plays a “80-percent-plus” role. Together with the Muskat Ottonel, the Yellow Muscat accounts for approximately 15% of the quantity, depending on the vintage, of this nice, accessible, medium-weighted food companion and amusement wine. Tasted after one year, the TRIE white seemingly displays a considerably higher Muscat percentage. This phenomenon reminds one of the fact that in former times all wines with intensive aromas were called “Muscat”.
This tremendous success story began in 2002. Based on the idea of harvesting sound Yellow Muscat grapes as early as possible and processing them optimally, the darling of the “many aficionados” emerged. Basic information in telegraphic style: Early harvest; early in the morning; transport of crystal clear must in refrigerated lorries to sparkling wine producer Inführ in Klosterneuburg; first fermentation in pressure tanks at 2,5 bar according to the letter of the law; at 7% vol.alc. interruption of fermentation by increasing the pressure and lowering the temperature; maturation under pressure. Filtration and bottling under counter pressure. This process results in perl wine (according to wine law) from 100% Yellow Muscat. It is a wonderful drink at any time of the day. With carbon dioxide exclusively developed through fermentation – the result is extremely fine bubbles and a creamy sensation on the palate. This process is the exact contrary to CO2 injection procedures applied for most Frizzantes available on the market. We would like to mention that the Muscato lies within the Piemonte establishment precisely in the middle as far as the alcohol content is concerned (Moscato d`Asti 4,5% to 6% vol.alc.; Asti Spumante 9% vol.alc.)
These varieties are doubtlessly different! We wanted to make sure so we planted some hundred Moscato Giallo vines in our Yellow Muscat vineyards. This looks completely different, but tastes well. The Muscato – per law non-vintage – but always fresh, is a versatile tickler of the palate which displays an elderberry finish, even after hours of tasting Tannat and Sagrantino di Montefalco. Some wine lovers consider it the optimum companion to Easter bread – wonderful - Muscat to accompany an Easter brunch (lasting until dawn)!
Apart from and in addition to the already established Yellow Muscat variations from the House Triebaumer we must not forget and ignore: Yellow Muscat certainly constitutes the most noble Botrytis variety in the world, together with the Sämling 88 (=Scheurebe). As soon as the Yellow Muscat vineyards of the largest Yellow Muscat producer in Burgenland (that`s us!) will permit, the answer of Rust to the Samling 88 award-winning sweet wine dominance will be named “Ruster Muscat”.
Have fun with the various faces – if you discover an additional one, let us know!